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I half wander about a hydrallic press from harbor frieght.

Regarding the cooler lid improvement check out vino farm bee barn 2.0. He did 45 degree angles so the insulation overlapped.

Well it isnt really that it is delaminating because of different metals just that it is pretty much filled with impurities like scaling when they make the rebar and soft steel like carbon steel tends to be a bit more finneki and prone to cracks. So lower heat and longer soaks in the heat definetly is the better way to avoid cracks, I would sugest next time to use a coal forge for rebar so you can get a even heat and a slower heat which benefits greatly and a bit of a plus you give it more carbon too.

So I hate to get up on a soapbox about this, but please, please remember that a corset should not be uncomfortable. If it's pinchy or keeps you from breathing or anything like that, it's because it doesn't fit right. Like tight-lacing is a thing, but it's not a thing that anyone expecting to be active did on the regular; it was for the Victorian equivalent of the Kardashians, mostly at events.

thank you nice tutorial! DO you use the marking on your finger naisl as measurements?

Cut your sledge handle shorter. Good it with the head about 2 - 3 inches above your hand. Mark the handle with in 3 inches of your elbow. You won't loose any practical force but will gain much more control when swinging

Well done on your boot choice. They are full grain leather and the construction states it has a steel shank, which makes you have a ton of support for your arches. The steel shank works by doing more of the heavy lifting as you take a step instead of your arch trying to keep the rest of the boot itself straight and only bending at the toes. It also seems to be Goodyear welted construction, which the description of the product mentions somewhat and isn’t just shown in the pictures. Due to that Goodyear construction these boots can be resoled by a cobbler. I give these boots 10/10.

The classic "If it does not work, get a bigger hammer." it still might not work. But it does help relieve stress. 😁

Next time try a something akin to a book press. It can put a lot of even pressure on the subject more accurately and repeatable.

Since nobody said it, I will. 13:35 gottem

Thanks for sharing the tilted line stamping... I was doing it the dumb way too...

To hold your dies and coin id try a steel pipe with a slot cut in it for your dowel pins. Slip that pipe into a larger diameter pipe to prevent the smaller one from splitting open. And screw that pipe into a flush mount base. And use 4 screws to mount it to whatever you like. All can be found in the plumbing isle at your local hardware store.

The coin video is what pulled me to your channel

Using a baking sheet or waxed paper between the two glued surfaces as you're trying to align the pieces up perfectly, gradually pulling the paper out as you align them, definitely helps me.

I use a sharpening stone to resharpen my Xacto knife blades. The foam dulls your blade quickly but a single blade, sharpened frequently, lasts a very long time. You'll save money on blades.

If you either buy a hydraulic hand cranked press or build a Steele frame with a bottle jack the wood blocks could be used to hold the metal in place and then just use the metal pieces as load bearing surfaces and hydralicly mint your own coins or pendants etc.. its only your fantasy that makes the limits by then.. and i think we all know that it basicly means no limits att all 😂

Probably make the holder block out of cement?????😊keep up the great work ❤❤❤

How about instead of using a hammer using a hydraulic press? More control.

I used to mass produce my silver coins before I set this hobby to a pause. Get a nice histrical coin/design a coin with clay. Make sillicone negative. Melt Zinc -> have fun.

did you anneal the "coin" blanks before stamping they would work better that way and you could also try this with a press instead of a hammer

you could have done this with salt water etching too

Out of everything I've seen you do this has to be one of the greatest

For casting coins, lead free pewter amd high heat silicone.

Clever, make a treadle hammer and use a 10 lb. hammer to fit over your anvil/ place onto your anvil stand. Also, please be careful about heating certian metal in enclosed spaces. There's a video called " what not to melt" on RUclips that details fume hazards for metal workers. I recommend watching it.

You actually want mineral oil over water, btw - you're less likely to get bubbles of steam that can burn you when quenching metals from high heats.

Could you make interesting shapes for the coins? Like ovals or polygons of your choice?

coins are awesome! I've been thinking on making ones out of super sculpey or some similar material, since one could strike them with easily made dies, such as 3d printed. adding some mica powder or such and bake them. not really metal, but might be an easy and fast way to make a lot.

Heads or Heads? Heads.

Check Out the 8000 series of Locktite Adhesives: they're made to _replace welding_ when it's impossible! A tiny daub in the hole for stuff like your keyholes can ensure that they're permanently affixed, just in case they didn't fully lock in via deformation when peening them! NOTE: when hand drilling holes, they often come out conical in profile, so the effectiveness of peening can be reduced. In this case that's probably not an issue, but if you need high strength or high accuracy, it very much can be! 😅

I’m ready fo this heat pack🔥🔥🔥💯

you should use the hole the anvil has to hold the coins

Use a steel pipe with the proper inner diameter (in this case 1 inch) instead of a wood block. Then weld a square tube to the side with about 1.5 inches sticking below the bottom to fit in the hardy hole of your anvil, that will keep it in place and give you a firm striking platform so that you arent using the ground. If you are still wanting a key slot (which yeah, a smart move) then just cut a slot in the length of pipe and weld your square tube on the same side to strenghten the cut.

Hi, I'm a member of the SCA, and I've been involved with a Guild that makes coins using techniques based on medieval methods. Engraving like this is one way of putting a pattern into the face of a die, but another useful method you might consider trying is using punches. You can make a huge variety of shapes, from simple geometric shapes like triangles, to complex ones like a fluer-de-lis, and as long as the punch is harder than the steel of the die the shape can be tapped into the die face with a fairly small hammer. For the coin blanks, I would suggest starting with sheets of whatever metal you want to strike (copper, brass, etc.) If the sheet is soft/annealed, you can cut out coin blanks with a good set of metal shears. Also, annealed coin blanks make for easier striking. Our guild was able to get good strikes in copper using a 5-8 lb. sledge hammer. Our go-to metal for coins, though, is pewter. It's dead-soft so it's much easier to strike, the scraps can easily be melted down and re-used since it has a low melting point (for awhile we melted our scrap pewter in an iron pot on a wood stove), and it is a pretty good simulation of silver.

Harden the dies, then anneal the brass for a better result of stamping

Loved this video!! I have a request! I run an in-character space at a larp, and i think any ideas you have for ways to decorate a space in larp would be an amazing video!

You don't even need melted metal. Hot metal bends easier, so you can just heat the coin blanks.

wow, that was surprisingly enjoyable.

how about building or buying a press.

Would this also work with copper?

Tip for hand cutting: your hacksaw should be adjustable so you can turn it at least 45° to make it easier to cut like you were!

I know it's not really the same, but you can buy blanks for engraving tools (? I don't know what the proper Word for "Stichel" is), which you then grind into the right shape for the intended use. Also, you can set Tools into a wooden handle by burning them in: drill a hole into the handle, that is a bit smaller than the Tang, then you best find something to _really_ securely hold the tool, heat the Tang to a dull glow, and then press the handle onto the Tang, so it burns the needed space into the wood. None of the Tools I've set this way got loose so far.

For the block, I would suggest looking up medieval/renaissance coin smithing. I would explain, but what I saw was years ago so my memory isn’t good enough to give a good explanation. But I think they have what you may be looking for. Also, they used a sheet of metal and a punch to cut out the blanks. Almost like cutting out cookies if the dough was metal and the cookie cutter needed a hammer to get through. So nothing like cookies.

A fly press or hydraulic press would be fantastic for this.

I always wanted to try metal engraving and I think you have shown me a way I can now make my trademark press. My Bind-ruin

Maybe you could make a press out a carjack inverted, so it would press down onto the stamps and press the images that way without breaking the wooden setup.

I do Medieval coin striking, I use pewter for the coins cut from sheet (1mm) using a fly press and cutting dies (you could use a hydrolic press but it would be much slower) you could also use copper, aluminium or brass and then aneal it. I taper the bottom of the lower die and have a large log with a matching tappered hole drilled in it that the die sits in. The upper die is held in place with thick walled pipe of the right inside diameter to match the outside diameter of the dies. hope thats of use.

I have been trying to find a way to make coins that is easy to do since I don't have much to use

look up the medieval guillotine style coin press